g-utmann



2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

(No Model.)

J. GUTM'ANN. BUTTON HOLE ATTAGHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES. No. 251,434.

Patented Dec. 27,1881.

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

J. GUTMANN.

BUTTON HOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES. No. 251,434. Patented Dec.27,1881.

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UNTTED STATES PATENT Oi ricn.

JULIUS GUTMANN, OF BERLIN, PRUSSIA, GERMANY.

BUTTON=HOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 251,434, dated December27, 1881.

(No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

-Be it known that I, JULius GUTMANN, of Berlin, Prussia, Germany, haveinvented an improvement in Button-Hole Attachments for Sewing-Machines,of which the following is a specification.

The invention relates to button-hole attachment of sewing-machines whichpossess a neeble-bar reciprocating in a straight line and a shuttlemoving at a right angle to the direction of the feed motion; and itsobject. is to providean attachment which can be easily applied to anyscwingmachine of the above description, and which is reliable in itspeiformance.

In the accompanying drawings, in which similar letters of referenceindicate corresponding parts, Figurelis a side view of the attachment,showing the needle-slide and other working parts in two differentpositions. Fig. 2 is a horizontal section taken on the line 0 c, Fig. 1.Fig. 3 is an enlarged sectional side view of the slide in the head ofthe needle-bar; Fig. 4, a sectional plan view,and Fig. 5 a back view,thereof. Fig. 6 is a rear elevation of the attachment. Fig. 7 shows thestitch-plate with guide-pin. Fig. 8 shows the guide-pin applied to thepresserl'oot. Figs. 9, 10, 11 show the stitched button-hole in a planand two crosssections.

The attachment is composed of the plate A, bearing diiferent parts, thehead E, with its parts, and the stitch plate. The suitablyshaped plateA, screwed to the side of the head of the machine, forms the bearing ofa short shaft, upon which is fixed the spur-wheel e gearing into apinion, (l, which is mounted upon the upper shaft, 1), of the machine,near the crank-disk 0. 'lhe relative diameters of the wheels 0 and d areas 2 to 1. A tappet or cannf, is on the back of the wheel e, bearingagainst the pin or friction-roller B of the lever g, which, oscillatingon the fulcrum O, has by means of the spring 75 the tendency to keep incontact with the cam f.

The lower arm, D, of the lever gis intended to actuate the horizontalslide h, which is guided in the piece E, that is fixed as a head to theend of the needle-bar F. By meansot' the screw 1 the needle N is securedto the slide h, which is steadied in itsmotions and kept-in itsrespective positions by the friction which the spring at exercisesagainst its side.

To guide the cloth to which a button-hole shall be applied, thestitch-plate G is furnished with a round tapering pin, a, which slit onone end, the needle N makes one full stitch rightin the slit.

It must be here remarked that the tension of the shuttle-thread is muchlighter than that of the needle thread. The slide h, being now elevatedby the bar F, is caught with the recess p by the lancet-sha-ped end ofthe leverarrn D and shifted a little to the right, the cam fhaving movedthe lever g to the left, and therefore the arm I) to the right. Thisbrings the next stitch on the side of the slit in the cloth. The underthread, which is taken along by theneedle-t-hread,is bythismovementplaced properly on the cloth. (See Figs. 9 and 10.) \Vhile thestitch is being niadethe camfleaves the roller B, and the arm D iscaused to rest on thehighestpoint of the cam-lever i by means of thespring k. is again caught by the arm I) and pulled back to its formerposition, in which the needle will make the next stitch, and so on. Inthis way aseani will be produced, as shown in the upper part of Fig. 10,the sh little-thread being alternately on both sides of the cloth andthe needle-thread running along the edge of the cloth in consequence ofthe ditfereut tension of these two threads. The last three stitches aremade differently. The cam-lever iisbroughtbyhand to the position of theright figure of Fig. 1. The ascending slide h will now be drawn a littlemore to the left, so that the corresponding stitch is not made into theslit, but into the cloth on the left side of the slit. The cloth is nowturned around the pin cone hundred and eighty degrees, and three morestitches are made, after which the eccentric i is brought back into thestarting position, (left figure of Fig. 1,) and the button-hole finishedby seau1- In reascending the slide it ing the remaining part of the slitin the firstdescribed manner.

It will be seen that the lock on the end of the slit is made with greatease. It is also a great advantage to line the inner edge of thebutton-hole with the needle-thread.

It will also be understood that the number of stitches for the lock isnot limited to six, but may be varied to suit; further, that the lockmaybe applied on both ends of the button-- hole; and, finally, that thedescribed attachment may be used not only for making buttonholes, butfor seaming or for ornamenting.

For certain purposes the stitch maybe varied by giving to the wheels 6and d other relative diameterssuch as, 3 to 1, 4 to 1, Sec-and by usinganother tension than that above mentioned. The length of the stitch maybe varied by giving to the roller B another position on the lever g, forwhich purpose a slot may be provided in the lever g, so that the rollerB can be fixed at difierent places, whereby the lever g, and thereforethe arm D, receives correspondingly different throws.

To change the machine into one for common sewing work, the button-holeattachment is taken oft by removing the screws which attach the plate Ato the machine-frame, the slide h is fixed by the screw 0 in its middleposition, and a common stiteh-plate applied. In readjusting thebutton-hole attachment, care must be taken to gear the wheels e and dtogether in the right way, for which purpose two teeth of them, whichought to come together, should be marked when the apparatus is once inright order. To keep the needle-thread always in the right position tothe needle, notwithstanding the latter alters its position horizontally,the guide-plate n, through a hole of which the thread passes, isfastened to the slide h, moving with it.

Instead of applying the pin a to the stitchplate G, it can be applied tothe presser-foot, as in Fig. 8,-in which case the stitch-plate isprovided with a suitable hole to receive the pin.

I claim- 1. A button-hole attachment for sewing-machines, consisting ofthe combination of the gear-wheels d and c with the cam f, doublearmedlever g D, having rollers B, spring la, and cam-lever i, and with theneedle-bar head E, slide h, having recessp, thread-guide n, and needle Nall arranged and operating-substantially as described.

2. The combination of the needle-bar F and its head E with the slide itto which the needle N is fastened, and with the gear-wheels (Z and c,cam f, lever g D, springk, and cam-lever 'i, all arranged for operationby the rotation of the upper shaft, b, of a sewing-machine,substantially asdescribed, and for the purpose specified.

3. In a button-hole attachment, the combination of the cam-leveri withthe lever g D, roller'B, spring 70, and camf, forlimiting the length ofstitch, substantially as described.

This specification signed by me this 25th day of July, 1881.

JULIUS G UTM ANN.

Witnesses:

ULRICH R. MAERZ, CARL T. BURRHARDT.

